Basantapur Durbar Square: Day 6 (09/05/2012)

We spent part of the morning going to the eye glass shop in Chetrapati to replace our lenses with our newest prescriptions. I also picked out a pair of prescription sunglasses. It will cost only 600 Nepali rupees for the sunglasses, which is approximately $6.71 USD.

Durbar Square Palace in Bhasantapur.

We then made our way to Basantapur, to Durbar Square, one of the World Heritage Sites of Nepal. The

Durbar Square is home to the former palace, several temples and pagodas, and the home of the Kumari Devi, the living goddess. The Kumari is a young girl who for a few years serves as a representation of the living goddess. There are many ceremonies surrounding her and there are also limitations on how often she can be viewed by the public.

Kumari Devi, the living goddess. Photo from Takako.

At Durbar Square there is the Hanumandhoka Durbar Museum, dedicated to the history of the previous kings of Nepal, specifically the most recent and final four. Until recently, Nepal had a monarchy system of government, that later became a constitutional monarchy. In most recent years the monarchy was dissolved, and it is now a multi-party democratic country, although still in its growing stages.

Nepali Dairy cow in Durbar Square.

One of the most world renowned parties is the Maoist, who were previously rebels against the former government of Nepal. While walking along a street yesterday, I saw the headline on a news paper that, “after 9 years, US does not consider Maoist party as terrorist.” Previously the United States had the party listed as terrorists, and there were several travel advisories regarding this. They were in part listed as terrorists because of the some of the violent actions that took place in the country side, including the destruction of hydro-electric dams, government buildings, and even burning of vehicles in the Kathmandu Valley. They engaged in gunfire with the Nepalese army as well. Once the Maoist were integrated into the Nepalese government, many of their soldiers became part of the current Nepali army. I am not the most savvy in terms of the Maoist or political structure of Nepal, but will probably share some more of what I have learned after we return to the US.

The museum itself is in the historical palace. Photos were not allowed, and we had to keep our cameras and bag in a locked cabinet. The architecture is intriguing and I can’t even begin to guess what each room is for. There is a small military/police barracks within the palace, so portions are blocked off. My assumption is that things like kitchens and pantries are in these areas, as they are working rooms that could be used in the barracks.

A street vendor sells turmeric, ground
coriander, and ground chili pepper in
nearby Asan Thol. The only gold is
that of turmeric that he must work so
hard to bring and sell in the
vibrant market.

The displays are in a mix of Nepali and limited English, but the few signs and items themselves tell the story of a lineage of monarchs who lived well outside of the life of the average citizen of Nepal. Gold embroidered clothing and painted statues, personal effects such as a movie reel projector…all things that seem very out of place for the people of Nepal. A glimpse of a dream world, now covered with a film of dust. Bikash comments about how this kind of extravagance did not help the people of Nepal, that the wealth accumulated from the people made all of this possible. There was no load shedding or water shortage for the palace.

We walk quickly through the rest of the museum and many courtyards to get back to the streets. Now that we can, we take a few photos and I begin to tape some of the cityscape, people, and temples. I am doing a wipe down shot of a stone pillar in the yard and…

“Madam.”

A tug at my elbow…a slight, dark complexion Nepalese woman dressed in a faded black sari and mustard cholo. Vermillion tikka powder and chamul covered her forehead. She may have been in her early 80s, or maybe younger. She had a handful of assorted necklaces in her hand, made of bone, wood, and jade beads. “Madam, sathi,” she again said raising the necklaces towards my face. I tell her “no thank you” and she persists.

Bikash steps in and begins to explain that I am not a tourist. (He taught me to say “Maf tourist hoina,” which I was not quick enough to say). The camera lens turns from stone towards the conversation that has now begun. He tells the woman that I am his wife (truth), I have no money (lie), and that I live here (lie).

She does not seem to believe him. He then says that my name is “Malakar…Crystal Malakar.” She is “Newar.” The woman is now intrigued and gives me the thumbs up upon learning my last name. They banter back and forth about this situation and conclude that we will not buy anything at this time. She leaves us smiling and moves on to the next tourist passing by. Afterwards, when we are leaving the square, we will see her again, but this times she recognizes us, smiles and waves and doesn’t waste her time on us.

Other images from the Durbar Square:

Shiva.

I consider using my Wisconsin skills to milk this cow…but I resist the temptation.

After taking a few more shots it begins to drizzle. We pack up the camera and camcorder quickly and discuss looking for food. We walk around for a bit in search of the entrance for a roof top restaurant that I went to before with Bikash’s father in 2009, but then it begins to pour. We find an entry way and huddle with other people to get out of the rain. I spot the entrance of the restaurant and we make a dash for it. The rain continues to pour, but we are temporarily indoors, climbing the steps of the restaurant. We get to the roof and head for the umbrellas. There already is a waiter, trying to stay dry as well. We order chai (Nepali milk tea), bottled mineral water, and two plates of momo: fried chicken momo and steamed buff momo. 

 

In the mean time the cameras come out and we take some photos. You can see Swayambhunath in the distance. The famed “Monkey Temple,” where we have yet to go this trip.

Bikash and I from the Kathmandu Roof Top Café in Basantapur.

The rain slows down and we take time to rest upon the roof top. Bikash talks for a while with the waiter. We are the only customers. After we finish our chai, we decided to head back to the streets of Basantapur district. Some of the side streets are much quieter than other parts of Kathmandu. There are still many motor bikes and every building holds a some sort of shop. Homes are built upwards, side by side. The juxtaposition of the original homes that are over 100 years old, with their carved wood framed windows, next to the taller, more modern homes popping up everywhere. Despite the age difference, load shedding does not discriminate between them.

A street vendor selling marigolds in

Durbar Square.

The rain does not slow for long, and again another heavy down pour. We rush back up the street to the Kastha Mandap Temple, located in the square. Ba has told me that this temple was made with only one single tree. Due to the size of the temple, and the fact that it is entirely made of wood, I find it hard to believe…ever the skeptic. None the less, it is an amazing, modestly adorned temple, that serves not only to hold the place of worship for the people, but acts as a shelter from the rain.

Pani puri in the barsat.

Kastha Mandap is the inspiration for the name of the city of Kathmandu (or maybe the city leant name to the temple?). Kathmandu’s original name is “Kastha Mandu” which means “wood city of the valley.” Mandu is very similar to mandala, and also emphasize the round shape of the valley, or the shape of a mandala.

The temple house four statues of the god Ganesh, the god with an elephant’s head. Ganesh is considered to be a protector of it’s devotees, but also ensuring success and knowledge. The four different Ganesh statues represent different things to pray for. Binyak is another word for Ganesh. Each of the Ganesh are in a separate corner of this pagoda style wooden temple. Each has its own stone shrine and bell.

Trying to stay dry from the rain while selling marigolds,
know that this too shall pass...

Karya Binyak is the Ganesh dedicated to work. Those who work hard will be successful and those devotees to Ganesh often offer puja to this location to seek help with work. The original Karya Binak is located at Bungamati in the Lalitpur district. The Ganesh are also located in different areas of the valley. A replica had been brought to the center of the valley at some point to make them accessible to all.

The children of porters staying dry

Shidhhi Binyak is the Ganesh dedicated to success towards whatever you are wishing for. It’s original location is in Bhaktapur.

Jal Binyak is for water. It is located near the meeting of several rivers in the valley, in Chobar. Devotees pray for rain, water…for freedom from natural disasters such as floods, due to rain.

Ridhhi Binyak is the Ganesh of education and strong mind. Many may give puja to this statue before a test (like the SLC in Nepal) or if they are trying to learn something new. This Ganesh has a small book in its hand. Ba did not remember the original location of this Ganesh. When we find out, I will post it.

Bikash. Cow.

Moving about after the rain fall slowed down.

We explored the temple as we waited for the rains to dissipate. And when it did, we made our way that evening through the streets of Asan and Thamel, back to home, to have dinner with Bikash’s grandmother, Bhajee. His Aunt Archana (father’s brother’s wife) prepared a traditional Newari meal, and we were joined by his Phu Phu Jeebit (father’s sister) and Ma Ma Vishnu (father’s sister’s husband). It was an enjoyable visit to finalize another full day. Both Bikash’s aunt and uncle have lived abroad in several countries, including the United States, so it was interesting and enjoyable hearing their experiences and observations, and recounting some of our experiences thus far.

Shelter.

Waiting.